I want to keep the rims off the rocks and decrease any tire squirm and self steer that low PSI brings with it, not to mention avoiding the flatter profile that a wide rim brings to any tire. But the 6Fattie will see much higher speeds than the little hardtail will. That provides a lot of support for the 3.0 tire and it works to increase comfort a great deal. I could go to 13psi with no issues and the rims are close to 40mm internal.
#Major geeks bounce bully plus
On the bikepacking Plus bike, I typically run 15psi or so depending on the trip. So where does that fit in with Plus tires? But the wider rims allow me to go to 21psi and even below 20psi and still be pretty solid. When I was running 25psi and above on 21mm internal MTB rims with a 29er tire, I never noticed any squirm issues. There is a trade-off here we need to look at, because if our tire weight increases, like it does with the typical Plus tire over a typical 29er tire, AND the wheels get much heavier, then that is not a great thing.īut do they need to be really wide, those Plus rims? If increased rim width is driven by the desire to run lower tire pressures, then, if pressures are NOT lowered, there is not much reason to run the wider, heavier rim. That rim does begin to get pretty heavy though, as it gets wider. It makes sense, does it not? If a 29×2.3 tire favors a wheel like the 29mm internal American Classic Wide Lightning, then a 3.0″ tire should get a commensurate increase in rim width to be equally happy. What we are buying with this increased width is the ability to run our tires at reduced air pressures and still have good sidewall support, avoiding a squirmy tire while still increasing traction and comfort.Īnd when Plus came along, it brought with it REALLY wide rims like 40mm and more. MTB rims in 29er land at present would be typically 25mm-29mm internal. On road bikes, likely spurred on by the Adventure/Gravel genre, rims are getting wider too. So most of the time we never paid much attention to rim width, although when Keith Bontrager rolled down some Mavic MA40s to 26″ size, that was a step into shedding wheel weight, but a step in the wrong direction for increased tire support.īut lately we have learned that a wider rim (now I am referring to the inner, or internal width in all cases) is a very nice thing. In the old days, we only ran wider rims if we needed stronger wheels.
#Major geeks bounce bully upgrade
But what wheels to upgrade to? And more accurately, what inner width is right for Plus tires? So even if I had bought the pricier Expert model 6Fattie, I still would have upgraded wheels. A wheel and tire swap can turn a doggy bike into a fun mount. I cannot think of anything that so impacts the feel of a bike as wheels and tires. I have read (but not confirmed) that the weight difference is 1/2 pound between the two wheel sets. That is part of the one grand price increase over the Comp Carbon which has wheels listed as Specialized Disc. The Expert Carbon gets a step up in wheel quality with the Roval Traverse wheelset including DT Swiss internals (I suspect they are not Star Ratchet though but DT 360 based). The stocker Comp Carbon wheels are pretty plain jane. Wheels and Tires – How do we look at rim width for Plus? So let’s take a look at the biggest improvement. After our introduction of Plan b here, and talking about the line of thinking that went into that decision, there were things going on that shaped how I looked at the model choice and there was some parts swapping.
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